31 Jul Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen SS16 Collection | A Collage of Influences
“We want the audience to be entertained by our clothes”, Keith Henning and Jody Paulsen said of their SS16 Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen show that took place at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town (MBFWCT) last night at The Watershed.
This new collection did just that. Taking its departure from a collage of different sources, including grid-like 70s motifs, sporty themes, the fluid movements of American post-modern dancer/choreographer Lucinda Child, the music of Philip Glass as well as Bauhaus and Constructivist textiles, the duo have fused these disparate elements together into a collection that retains the effortless, easy-wearing look that is characteristic of the label.
The lines and silhouettes of this collection are vintage Adriaan Kuiters with a functional, urban, wearable character. Old prints, fabrics and patterns being reworked and reused to create something new. The cuts are structured and classic yet easy to wear and sporty. The fabrics used for the show – scuba knit, linen, crêpe, leather, poplin, silk and knits – were selected first and foremost for their ability to move with the wearer. In keeping with the brand’s aesthetic, and with a nod to Lucinda Child’s androgynous style, all the garments are unisex with spacious and forgiving fits.
The colour palette was characterised by nudes, whites, greys, black and primary colours. Jody says that his prints for this collection, which relied on repetition, were largely inspired by Philip Glass’s score for Lucinda Childs’ choreography. “We wanted them to look like textures and used motifs that appeared on Bauhaus and Constructivist textiles, the Maria Keil tiles we saw in the Lisbon underground, and in the works of David Hockney, Roy Lichtenstein and Sol LeWitt. There are elements in all these artists’ works that echo the conceptual approach of the collection, which I love.”
Appliquéd fabrics and semi-precious stones lent a three-dimensional, visceral feel to the looks. Keith and Jody’s collaborative approach extended to include Steffany Roup who created the accessories and jewellery for the show. Each of the brass and wooden bangles, hair clips, brooches and pendants were designed collaboratively “We met weekly to discuss and develop the pieces that were largely inspired by the shapes in the prints,” Keith explains, “we literally held the jewellery in front of the clothes to see how they would work together before collaging the shapes into the final looks. This allowed us to create looks that are more cohesive and complete than would have been otherwise possible”.
Adidas was the shoe sponsor for the show, with models wearing all-leather Stan Smiths and Superstars, and together with plastic visors, adding to the sporty themes of the collection.
Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen’s SS16 designs will be available in the Kloof Street store in Cape Town and online at adriaankuiters.com in September 2015.