In a bold and nuanced fashion statement, BOYDE’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Deterritorialization, delves into the intricate layers of apartheid and post-colonial architecture, seamlessly intertwining politics, design, and culture. At the helm of this Johannesburg-based contemporary luxury brand is Samkelo Boyde Xaba, a young designer who has established himself as a visionary in African fashion, blending sustainability with an uncompromising design philosophy.
The collection’s name, Deterritorialization, is derived from a socio-political concept referring to the shifting of territories and social boundaries, signaling transformation and redefinition. BOYDE’s collection embodies this metamorphosis through its exploration of South African architecture during apartheid—a time when hostels were erected as structures of control and segregation. These buildings, which housed non-white labourers, now serve as a source of creative inspiration for Xaba, who reimagines them as symbols of endurance and transformation.The collection made its debut at the New York Fashion week earlier this year.
BOYDE’s designs are a masterful blend of geometric modernism, industrial architecture, and a quiet reverence for African cultural heritage. The collection takes inspiration from the rigid structures of apartheid architecture but softens them through minimalist cuts, neutral tones, and functional silhouettes. The resulting garments are as much about personal expression as they are about redefining historical narratives.
What sets Deterritorialization apart is its elegant simplicity. BOYDE strips down the excess, leaving garments that are versatile, timeless, and supremely comfortable. With durability and sustainability at the heart of every piece, this collection not only speaks to fashion-conscious consumers but also taps into a growing movement towards mindful consumption.
In its quiet defiance, the collection mirrors the resilience of those who lived under apartheid, offering a subtle but powerful homage to African architectural history.
In Deterritorialization, BOYDE crafts a dialogue between the past and the future, between social control and personal liberation, making this collection an insightful commentary on African design and culture. It’s a collection that challenges us to rethink the way we view fashion, architecture, and their roles in shaping the world around us.
Check out the collection HERE
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Credits:
Creative direction: @samkeloboyde
Photography: @tatendachidora & @paulshiakallis
Retoucher: @jphanekom
Photography assistant: @matiyelalucky & @thapelo.stylarjam
