We chat to Ann-Sofie Johansson about the return of the H&M Design Award and why early-career designers need support now
The H&M Design Award is back after a break. For the first time, South African students are eligible to enter. We speak to Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and head of design womenswear at H&M, about why the award is returning now, what has changed, and what she hopes to see from emerging designers in South Africa.
Read on to find out more about the design awards, how to enter and to find out what Ann-Sofie has to say.
Between 10and5: The H&M Design Award returns after a hiatus with its most global reach yet. What felt most urgent about relaunching the Award now, and how does this moment reflect where fashion and young designers currently find themselves?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: We are thrilled to be relaunching the award. We felt that in these times an award that supports aspiring designers at the graduate level is important. These are tough times for starting a brand, and we know that support and mentorship is really needed as early as possible. We are thrilled to offer that. We felt there was a gap for a prize that focused on the earliest stages of people’s careers. By focusing on aspiring designers at the education stage, we felt we could really help people at a crucial moment, right when they are trying to launch.
There are other prizes for designers at a mid-career level, but something that helps them right at the start is more unique. The prize money is really significant: a €150,000 (R2 845 092) endowment to help get started. And I think what’s very special is the dedicated year-long tailored mentorship, which covers critical areas such as sustainability and circularity, production, marketing and PR. We see that as essential in building a long-term career for the winner, as hopefully they will walk away with strong knowledge and industry-access. And as you say, this is the most global version of the prize yet – which we are thrilled about.
The prize money is really significant: a €150,000 (R2 845 092) endowment to help get started.
Between 10and5: South Africa joins the Award for the first time through institutions like FEDISA, Design Academy of Fashion, and STADIO School of Fashion. What excites you most about South African design voices, and what do you hope jurors will discover from this region?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: We are thrilled to have South Africa included in the award, and to have the chance to engage with work by students at such great schools. We are always fascinated by designers who balance big visions with nods to their home or heritage. That blend of global and local is really exciting to us and something we have been thinking a lot about across the board at H&M: what are the roots of identity? Or self-expression? We can’t wait to see the varying design languages of the South African entrants and see how they combine their culture and history with a vision for contemporary fashion.
We are always fascinated by designers who balance big visions with nods to their home or heritage. – Ann-Sofie Johansson
Between 10and5: Beyond the €150,000 endowment, mentorship plays a central role in the Award. From your experience, what kind of guidance or support do emerging designers most need at this pivotal stage of their careers?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: I think the mentorship is a vital part of the prize. I think what holds designers back is often knowledge and experience of very practical things: how to approach manufacturing or marketing or producing, and what are the options within their areas to do things differently. We hope that we can support designers with introductions, advice and encouragement, to let them make their own plans for building their businesses, but equipping them with the tools and contracts to push their dreams and visions forward.
Between 10and5: Sustainability and circularity are key pillars of the mentorship programme. How do you see young designers pushing these ideas forward in ways that established brands sometimes struggle to?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Young designers are in a strong position to ask questions: to reject existing systems and say, I’m going to do things differently. More established brands can sometimes be limited by past cycles of doing things that have become the accepted norm. But for a young designer starting out there is the opportunity to envision new ways of working, whether that’s in terms of how and where they are sourcing their fabrics, or how often they are producing new collections, or even how they want to want to talk to their customer, and what they want to talk about. It’s important to question everything, and we are always impressed by young designers who have the confidence to do this.
Between 10and5: As creative advisor and head of design womenswear at H&M, you’ve worked across both creative and commercial fashion spaces. Why is it important for large fashion brands to actively invest in emerging talent, rather than only observing from a distance?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Because emerging talent is the future! Supporting creativity is a huge part of H&M’s vision, history and values. I couldn’t imagine it any other way: we are honoured to have supported the careers of so many people we admire, through this prize, like Minju Kim, Stefan Cooke, Priya Ahluwalia, Sabine Skarule, and Richard Quinn.
More about the Awards
The award focuses on designers at the start of their careers. It offers financial support and long-term mentorship to fashion students whose work shows strong ideas, technical skill and a clear point of view. After a hiatus, the award returns with a wider global reach and a stronger emphasis on early-stage support.
Who can enter
The award is open to BA and MA students from more than 60 fashion schools across 25 countries. This year includes students from eight new countries, among them South Africa. Locally, students from STADIO School of Fashion, FEDISA Fashion School and Design Academy of Fashion are eligible to apply.
What’s at stake
The winner will be selected by an international jury and will receive a €150,000 (R2,845,092) endowment, along with a year-long mentorship programme. The mentorship covers areas such as sustainability, production, marketing and PR. The winner’s collection will also be produced and sold in selected H&M stores, as well as online. Eight finalists will each receive a €10,000 (R189,672.80) endowment.
ENTER NOW
Applications are now open at designaward.hm.com. Entrants must submit their portfolios digitally. Twenty semi-finalists will be announced in October.
