Streets to Runway: How Samkelo Boyde Is Reinventing Luxury In African Fashion

Samkelo Boyde Xaba has always been driven by a deep connection to the creative arts. His journey from curious fashion enthusiast to celebrated designer is nothing short of inspiring. Since launching his luxury clothing brand, BOYDE, in 2017. Samkelo has redefined contemporary African fashion with an emphasis on sustainability, longevity, and a unique blend of cultural heritage and modern aesthetics.

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IMAGE: SAMKELO BOYDE

In 2020, Samkelo’s talent was recognised when he won the Scouting Menswear Competition at SA Fashion Week. But this was just the beginning. In 2022, Samkelo embarked on an exciting new chapter in his career, collaborating with denim authority G-Star as part of their Certified Tailors Programme. This initiative empowers local entrepreneurs while promoting sustainable fashion by breathing new life into old garments.

As someone who’s always used natural, locally-sourced, and sustainable fabrics, Samkelo embraced the program’s ethos of “reduce, repair, and rewear,” aligning perfectly with his own design philosophy. His unique vision has caught the attention of the fashion world, and this year, GQ South Africa honoured him with the title of ‘Best Dressed Young Creative’, cementing his status as a rising star.

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IMAGE: SAMKELO BOYDE

Samkelo’s latest collection, Deterritorialization, explores powerful narratives of land, identity, and cultural displacement. The collection not only highlights his design genius but also his deep-rooted connection to African history and traditions. His use of bold colours, intricate patterns, and innovative silhouettes continues to push the boundaries of fashion, creating a dialogue between the past and the future.

We caught up with Samkelo while on set for a photoshoot with G-Star, to learn more about his journey, his approach to fashion and how denim plays a pivotal role as a fashion statement.

10and5: Tell us about your journey into fashion. What inspired you to pursue this career?

To introduce a proudly South African manufactured luxury product to the global market and accelerate job creation in the South African manufacturing sector.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: Can you share an example of how G-Star’s Certified Tailors Programme has influenced your design approach?

When we visited the G-star headquarters in Amsterdam I learnt so much about denim. That  it is a traditional durable fabric, but you can treat it and experiment with it to create various kinds of products.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: How do you feel G-Star has supported your journey as a designer?

G-star has supported my journey in a robust way. I feel that my creative entrepreneurship skills have improved by far. From visiting their headquarters to learn about the history of denim and the brand, to attending team building trips with the team in Cape Town…I am grateful to be a part of the G-star family.” –Samkelo Boyde

10and5:Denim is such a staple in fashion. How do you view denim as a fabric, especially in your design process?

 Denim is such a poetic fabric, you can tell any story with denim. The pattern design, the stitching detail and finishing labels & hardware. All those design components are carefully put together to tell a South African contemporary story through denim and design.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: Your latest collection, ‘Deterritorialisation’, tells a powerful story. Can you share the inspiration behind it?

Deterritorialisation’ explores the study and concept of Apartheid Post-colonial Architecture delves into the intersection of architecture, politics , and social control during the era of apartheid in South Africa. It focuses on the design and function of hostels , which served as physical embodiments of apartheid policies, designed to segregate and control non-white populations.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: What role do you think heritage plays in contemporary fashion, especially in your work?

For me it is more about the spirit of ‘Ubuntu’ than anything, you might put on your cultural outfit but if the spirit of ubuntu does not shine through you, your outfit will barely be recognised. The ‘uBuntu’ spirit influences how we cast our modelling talent to always showcase that as a South African brand.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: What’s been the most rewarding aspect of your fashion journey so far?

Having to travel the world and experience new adventures in order to foster a worldwide conversation through fashion storytelling.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: What challenges have you faced as a young designer in South Africa, and how has G-Star helped you navigate those challenges?

I have big ideas. Not just in fashion but design as a spectrum. Sometimes we fail to execute due to lack of resources in the country, however G-star has never been reluctant to assist when help is needed, They’re always keen to assist.”-Samkelo Boyde

10and5: Lastly, what advice would you give to young designers who are looking to make their mark in the fashion industry?

The best way to become great is to practice and practice endlessly. Design is a practice that you have to exercise on a daily basis in order to become great at what you do. I cannot forget to mention research, research everything that has to do with design and the key personnel behind it. If we foster a holistic approach to design, we will be able to implement sustainable design solutions to our everyday lives in our society, that way we will shift the paradigm of fashion to have a positive impact in our environments.”-Samkelo Boyde

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IMAGE: SAMKELO BOYDE

Samkelo is undoubtedly one of the most exciting young talents in South African fashion today. With his unwavering commitment to sustainability, cultural storytelling, and innovative design, He is setting a new standard for the next generation of fashion designers.